descendants of former slaves still work as tenant farmers for the masters of old. Over 80% of Senegal's population is Muslim, including the Wolof, Toucouleur and Mandinka. (The Fulani, or Peul, and the Diola are animists by tradition, while many of the Srr are Catholics.) One of the primary differences between orthodox Islam and the Senegalese version is the latter's reverence for its Grand Caliphs, or marabouts (holy men), who are thought to link their disciples and Allah. Few people would think of making a big decision without consulting their town's Grand Marabout. French is the official language and Wolof the principal African tongue. The Toucouleur and Fulani speak Pulaar (or Fula), while the Srr speak Srr. Arabic expressions are also widely used and can come in handy for travellers. The food in Senegal is generally very good. Regional specialities include poulet or poisson yassa, marinated and grilled chicken or fish; maf, a peanut-based stew; tiboudienne (chey-bou-jen), rice cooked in a fish and vegetable sauce. Senegalese beer is also good. Gazelle and Flag are popular brands. Senegalese music can be divided into two broad categories: traditional and modern. Today's pop stars base their music on traditional sounds and rhythms and have become some of the most famous in Africa. The father of modern Senegalese music is Ibra Kass, who founded the Star Band de Dakar in the early 1960s. Foremost amongst today's stars is Youssou N'dour, who combines traditional mbalax music and Western pop, rock and soul and has an international following. Tour Kunda is another world-famous exponent of mbalax, while Baaba Maal, a Peul from northern Senegal, sings in his native tongue and displays a more traditionally 'African' sound. ...
