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The Study of Cow Shit

st or rub against one another. As a result there is very little internal friction in the Machard tresse. The knot grips and releases the climbing line very freely. It is very responsive to changes in load.BenefitsDuring descents and limb walk outs:It is very precise - starting and stopping is very smooth and exact It is very responsive. A light touch is all that is necessary to exercise control. It is very secure. It won't continue to run once the climber has released it. And, it won't slip once it's stopped. For performing work at a given station:It is the most secure of all the climbers knots. A sudden increase in load caused by a climber cutting off and holding a branch will not cause the knot to slip. During ascents and limb walk returns:It is very easy to break the knot loose. It is very easy to remove slack. ShortcomingsThe knot can fail to set and grab the rope after it has been advanced. The knot opens up very easily when it is advanced. Sometimes, it can open so much that its parts loosely lose contact with the climbing line. Without sufficient contact with and drag on the climbing line, the knot won't tighten.Descents can be overly rapid. Pulling the knot down too far opens up the knot too much and causes free fall descents. The knot can be pulled down too far without applying much pressure to the knot. Climbers who are used to pulling down hard and sharply on a Blake knot or tautline hitch will be in for an unpleasant surprise if they treat the Machard tresse in the same manner.Ways to Overcome the ShortcomingsFailure of the knot to set after advancement:Use a tighter knot, one that doesn't open up as much. Usually, this solves the problem. If the cord or loop being used is sufficiently pliable, this shortcoming is really just an adjustment problem. Tightening the knot usually makes it a little more difficult to break the knot loose and to remove slack. But, a good compromise can usually be found between consistent knot setti...

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