nd the quality of the maneuvers performed by the surfer. Now that we know the basics what about the other stuff???The Roots of Surfing - HawaiiAlthough no one knows exactly where and when stand-up surfing began, there is no doubt that over the centuries the ancient sport of "he'e nalu" (wave-sliding) was perfected by the Kings and Queens, and by men and women in the Sandwich Isles, long before the 15th century.Of the Hawaiians who surfed, it was the chiefly class who claimed the highest reputation for dedicated proficiency with board and waves. They had their own prayers, chanters, board shapers, wood and beaches where they alone could surf with others of similar rank. No one dared to drop in on their wave, that meant death, or at least a near death experience. Surfing achieved a special status and respectability in ancient Hawaii. Renowned surfers were celebrated in song and dance and often enjoyed special privileges in the royal circle. Which ever board they choose, being the long or short board, the Chiefs took great pride in the skill, grace, speed and courage with which they rode the Pacific's swells. However humble one's surfboard was, it was treated with respect. Even before the board was shaped a proper "surfbuilding ritual" was observed. It began with a tree. Only three types of trees were used; the wiliwili, the ulu, and the koa. They dig a hole among the roots and place the fish therein with a prayer as an offering to the gods in return for the tree he is about to shape into a board. The construction and shaping of the board took a great experienced craftsman, that they called the "shaper." Stains were also used. They were obtained from the soot of burned kukui nuts, charcoal from burnt pandanus leaves, or the juices from young banana buds. To complete the process, a dressing of Kukiu nut oil was applied when the stain was dry, and the black, glossy board was ready for surfing.How it Escaped HawaiiThe first Euro...
