ecome the key to the second stage. Patience is needed in order to not get frustrated with numerous possibilities, ranging from not being able to catch a wave to not having enough waves to catch. If one begins to get frustrated then that messes up their timing and affects their ability to get properly positioned with the wave in order to drop in safely. A lot of time is spent just waiting for the right wave to come. This is one of the nice things about surfing for many people. It gives them a chance to forget about their problems and responsibilities. At the same time it can be a place to just think and clear one's mind. Although this thought process is going on, one is to remain very attentive and constantly screening the horizon for any possible wave swells. As soon as a good wave is spotted and no other surfer is positioned for it, a hard paddle is commenced in order to catch the wave. This effort initiates the third stage, riding the damn thing! As soon as enough paddling speed has been attained and the wave begins to take over one's forward momentum, a split second decision has to be made on which way to "drop in," left or right? This decision is based on countless circumstances. There could be a surfer on one side going right, forcing one to go left. This brings in the aspect of communication with other surfers. If the decision is made to go right and the other surfer goes the same way, it could lead to a collision and possible injury. It has to be made clear to the other surfer in which direction one is going by either eye contact, body movement, or a simple vocal warning. As soon as that is established (all this takes place in less than 1.5 seconds) one pushes off the board in a quick movement, pops up on two feet, and drops in. At this point one begins to feel an exhilarating rush of speed and fluidity as the board glides across the face of the wave. Once surfing the wave, skill and ability permi...
