tting, many tricks and maneuvers can be done. But in many cases just simply "surfing" the wave for what it is, can suffice to make one smile in awe of such an incredible experience.Immediately after the wave has finished (assuming there wasn't a "wipe out") the three stages begin to repeat themselves over and over again. For the most part a session usually lasts anywhere from 1 to 5 hours, depending on the quality of the wave and how much time one has. It eventually becomes an addictive process, each stage with it's own set of challenges and rewards. But when one's last wave of the session has been ridden into the beach and the leash has been wrapped around the board and arms stretched, a sense of gratitude for the ocean sets in and the rest of the day is put into a positive perspective. ...
