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Cozumel

In Mexico, off the tip of the Yucatan Peninsula is an island. The island is surrounded bycoral reefs filled with life. Ferry boats pass over the reefs, making half-hour runs to and from themainland. Dive boats anchor near the coral itself, and divers bob around among the eels, fish, andlobsters. Cruise ships come in around the reef, and drag anchor through dead reef. The dock thataccommodates them occupies space that used to be one of the oldest surrounding reefs. If itsright or wrong, its been done, and people pay lots of money to ride on the big luxury liners.The large dock juts out toward the mainland, and the surf there is calm. The beach is not. Small children weave in and out of crowds of tourists, clutching cheap bead necklaces, and cryingout the price for their wares. The boardwalk is full of people with suitcases, people with guidesand maps, people with cameras. Taxis wait for any minute signal to rush these people to theirdestinations. On the other side of the street are expensive boutiques owned by foreigners. Thenthere are the nightclubs, as seen on MTV, and the fancy restaurants. The cruise ship passengersare urged not to stray from the main drag, and most dont. They wear neon bracelets identifyingthem as belonging to the ships. Most store owners have special prices for cruise passengers. Thats why most things dont come with price tags on them.Behind Main Street, the true San Miguel lives. The natives stores and restaurants, (muchbetter than the expensive ones), family-owned hotels and car rental places. The store owners tellwomen how pretty they are, to lure them into their stores. Ladies, if youre feeling insecure, justtake a stroll down Cozumels back streets. Even if you dont buy anything, youll leave feelinglike a princess. The sounds and smells of the restaurants are wonderful, especially right before sunset. Reggae music plays at a dull roar from one bar and grill. The Crab Shack pumps out Calyps...

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