o,and at Primas, (funny how the best Italian food in the world is served in Mexico), they alwaysplays something that sounds both classical and exotic at the same time. Then, if you walk past LaChosa, you can hear the grill sizzling as they are fry up lobster tails, bacon, steak, and fish, that,more often than not, end up on the same plate. All the eateries are open-air, so you can hear themummer of conversation, the clatter of plates, and someone is always laughing.At the hotel Las Plaza Las Glorias, on the main drag, but down from the really snootyplaces, everyone is invited to happy hour. Everyone watches the red sun sink at an alarming rate,and count the days they have left in paradise. At the precise moment that the last sliver of sundrops below water, a band strikes up and sings, Cozumel, a song about the beauty of the island. Then everyone drinks huge margaritas and daiquiris and then either stumbles to their hotel roomsor to Carlos and Charles, the trendy and crazy dance club. Around two or three in the morning, the karioke clubs finally lose their hard core partiers,and the music stops, and the owners clean the places. The tourists go to the hotels or the ships,and in the morning, there are more people with suitcases on the sidewalks, some leaving, some,paper-white, just arriving. The stores are doing a healthy trade by ten in the morning, although noone bothers to keep track of the time on the island....
